Cajon Pass to Mt. San Jacinto, CA
Mile 342 to 178

The main objective of this section hike was to complete the 30 miles I was unable to hike last April due to remaining heavy snow at Fuller Ridge in the San Jacinto Mountains. I would once again hike from north to south, starting at Cajon Pass on Interstate 15 and finishing at the same place I ended last spring - the Tram to Palm Springs.

The training ritual consisted of alternating biking 8 - 15 miles with walking 4-6 miles per day. Three weeks before departure I would walk every 4th day, with the pack loaded to 25 pounds. I felt that I over trained last spring and created early foot problems. The bike allowed me to keep in shape and go easy on my knees.

On Wednesday, April 10th my brother John drove me to the trailhead, 20 miles east of San Bernadino on Interstate 15. Thank you John. I was at the trailhead and on my way by 7:30 am. The weather had been seasonably cool, but of course, the day I left the forecast was for 80 degree+ temperatures. My brother had mentioned the number of trains passing over Cajon Pass so naturally all day I could hear, and see almost non-stop trains going up and down the Pass. Unsure of camp sites around Silverwood Lake, I made camp in a closed campground just outside Silverwood Lake State Park. Even though it was closed there was running water available.

The next morning, as I left camp, I realized that I was getting blisters again in the same places I had last spring. I had not gotten blisters on my Southern Washington section hike in September wearing the same boots, so I was surprised. It seemed that the combination of hot weather, trail conditions, as well as Gor-tex boots was most of the problem. My feet were plain getting too hot! Nothing I could do about that now, so I would spend the next 5 days in pain once again. At least I was prepared with lots of items to treat for blisters, though nothing was going to make my feet feel better.

It was getting hot, as the true spring season came to this desert region, and water was going to be scarce for awhile.

About 10 miles down the trail, as I was gimping along favoring my blistering feet, I put my uphill hiking pole down and immediately heard a very load rattling sound. A rattlesnake! With my sore feet, I must have been a funny sight as I tried to jump to the side and get past my foe. I managed to get a quick look and it was big, black and angry. A week later I was telling someone about my encounter and they knew exactly where I had been. Apparently several people have encountered this same snake defending its territory.

I managed to hike 12 miles on my second day, camping along a running creek where I could soak my feet.

My daily routine in hot weather is to get on the trail early, before the sun had ascended high enough to be truly scorching. I'd hike 8 to 10 miles, find whatever shade I could, take a long break, then continue later in the cooler afternoon. As much as I wanted to be on the trail by 7:00 am, my morning foot routine slowed me down. But each day my feet were slowly getting better.

Day 3 and 4 were spent in Deep Creek, a fifteen mile canyon along a beautiful creek lined with very inviting swimming holes. Unfortunately the hot, dry trail was a steep 50+ feet above the creek and hiking alone, with blisters, it wasn't safe for me to attempt getting down for a swim. A popular hot springs lies about half way through the canyon, and though I had only gone 10 miles on day 3, I decided to stay, soak my feet and enjoy the scenery. The few people who had made the steep hike down from the rim of the canyon were the first people I had encountered since my departure. However none were PCT hikers, but instead just out for a short hike to the hot sprngs.

Day 4 I was on the trail by 6:15 am, hiked the remaining 10 miles along Deep Creek, and then began the ascent to Big Bear along Holcomb Creek. As it was a Saturday, there were numerous day hikers out for a swim or to fish. It was nice that evening to camp among the pines of the San Bernadino Mts.

Up to this point I was disappointed in my progress. During my first section hike I had planned on 10 mile days, but averaged 14 miles. Section two I managed 15 mile days, yet now I was struggling to complete 12 miles. I had allowed a few extra days for unexpected delays so instead of beating myself up, I did what I could and tried to enjoy the experience. This wasn't a race. Big Bear was another twenty miles, and a lay day was planned with a bed, shower and real meals.

On Monday, April 15th, as I approached the road I would take into Big Bear, I ran into a day-hiker, Tiffany, who after a brief conversation invited me to stay at her house. The offer sounded good to me, so I accepted. Tiffany would like to hike the PCT and was very interested in what was involved and my experiences. She's in the real estate business for a career, and the rest of my day was spent tagging along as she helped friends look at rental property.

The last time I remember being in Big Bear was probably the late-70's when I came up to ski for the day with a friend. At that time there was one small, local ski area, very much at the whim of the unreliable weather. Now there are three big ski areas. Amazing how the ability to make snow changes the game.

I intended to spend one night and return to the trail the next afternoon. But the forecast was for possible snow showers, and the temperatures were dropping into the high 20's. Tiffany also wanted to hike with me for a day, so I remained for another night and woke up the next morning to a light dusting of snow. I managed to get Tiffany on the trail by 9:15 am.

Since Tiffany had hiked many sections of the PCT in the Big Bear area, she wanted to hike a section new to her. That put me 20 miles from where I had gotten off the trail, meaning I'll have to do that portion on my next trip to So Cal to visit my mom. (See Update at bottom.)

It was a beautiful day, I felt refreshed and ready to be back on the trail. My feet were definitely bette,r but now my right knee was bothering me. This seemed strange since I hadn't done any long downhill sections. On reflection, it was probably the 3 days of trail with the downhill slope consistently to my left and no variation for my knees. I should have been icing my knees during the time off in Big Bear.

About 5 miles into the trail I was talking to Tiffany, looking at Mt. San Gorgonio, when the next thing I knew I was flat on my face. Bam! Eating dirt! I think the trail fell away from my downhill foot and my left foot tripped over that foot, while the weight of the pack pulled me down. When I'm on my own, I'm very careful where I place my feet, as usually there isn't anyone to help if I make a mistake. Luckily Tiffany was with me, and helped me get cleaned up and bandaged the gash I now had on my nose and forehead. I don't think the fall helped my right knee!

Along this section of the trail is the home to movie industry stunt animals - lions, tigers, brown bears and a few other creatures - all enclosed in a large chain linked fence, and in visible cages. As we approached the fence a guard dog came towards us barking. All of a sudden ALL of the cats began roaring. The sound was incredible - and very scary. I couldn't help but wonder the impact it would have in the wild!

Tiffany turned back for home about a mile from my destination for the night (Thank you Tiffany for your great hospitality!), Coon Creek Cabin, the first school house in the Big Bear area, or so I was told and not confirmed. The old school sits with two other cabins on a ridge overlooking the Coachella Valley. The windows and doors have long been gone, but since it was going to be a cold and windy night I slept inside to get some shelter from the elements.

My knee was really bothering me when I got up the next morning, and my concern was that it would be troublesome, as I had a 5,000 ft. descent in the next 35 miles. I considered hiking out to the road, but just couldn't give up yet. "Cowboy up and keep on going", I told myself, and I continued on. It was a slow, painful, careful hike down almost 3,000 ft., but I managed 12 miles to my next camp. On this stretch of trail I met four PCT thru-hikers, my first since I began, hiking the opposite direction. And even though there were now hikers on the trail, I had another solitary campsite beside Mission Creek.

The morning of day 10 found me hobbling down the trail. It was going to be a long, painful day. I hadn't been on the trail more than an hour when I met another hiker coming up the trail, Ed from Bellingham. Ed was going to resupply in Big Bear but was a little short on food. I gladly gave him a few extra meals, and in exchange he gave me a pain killer for my knee! I'm very naive about drugs, taking mostly only aspirin. But Ed had a white pill he said he took every morning with his coffee. I really didn't know what I was taking, but within a hour I was almost skipping down the trail. I continued to be very careful but felt no pain and managed 15 miles!. I camped beside the Whitewater Creek, rinsed out clothes and enjoyed the evening.

It was only 8 miles to Trail Angels Ziggy and Bear's house in Cabazon off Highway 10, outside Palm Springs. I arrived about 11:30 am and spent the rest of the day taking a shower, eating, including a large bowl of ice cream provided by Bear, and relaxing. They are an amazing couple. They first became Trail Angels when they lived in Anza, CA, 5 miles off the trail. They specifically bought the house they are in now because it is literally right on the PCT. During the height of the season they've had as many as forty hikers camped in their backyard. Being early in the season, there were only 10 hikers that night.

Trail names are something that most hikers are given along the trail. At this point I didn't have one. But Bear came up with one and it stuck - Hike Alone. So I now officially have a trail name.

The next 32 miles were the ones I wanted most to complete, the section I was unable to hike last year. My plan was to do the first 5 miles, across the desert floor, very early in the morning before the sun became too intense. Then I'd wait at the bottom of the ridge, literally hiding in the shade under a large rock, and begin the 6,000 ft. climb late in the afternoon as the sun was going down.

I arrived at my rock by 9:30 am. There is a drinking fountain there, put in by the local water district, and the first water in twenty miles for those coming down the ridge. The day was spent visiting with the hikers coming down and imparting information on the trail ahead. At 4:30 pm I began the 6,000 ft. ascent up the trail. The moon was going to be 3/4 full that night and I was hoping to get in a few hours of hiking after sundown.

By 8:00 pm it was getting dark enough that it was becoming difficult to see the trail. My headlight wasn't really illuminating the trail well enough, and the moon wasn't yet high enough to provide adequate light. I knew that there was a camp site close by and proceeded very slowly, along steep sides, through rough areas of thick brush, until about 9:15 pm when I spotted a potential camp site. Of course by now the moon was fully out and shining down on me like a headlight! I was glad to get my sleeping bag down and get some sleep.

I was on the trail by 6:00 am to beat the sun and complete the next 5 miles of trail in the open. By 9:00 am I was finally in the trees on the final approach to Fuller Ridge, and by 12:15 pm I was at the Fuller Ridge Trail head at 7,761 ft. Since I had an extra day to spare, I decided to make camp, and do the 5 miles of Fuller Ridge, with it's many snow banks, the next morning while my legs were fresh.

The afternoon was spent talking with hikers heading down and giving them advice on potential camping sites. By evening there were 6 other people camping in the same spot; my the first night in camp with other hikers. But everyone was tired and just wanted to settle down, so instead of having some evening companionship I was once again alone.

My last full day of hiking was along Fuller Ridge and through the San Jacinto Forest. All in all a great day. I wanted to spend my last night in the same camp spot I spent last spring in Skunk Cabbage Meadow, but I couldn't exactly find the spot. After setting up camp, I went looking for water and found the site but decided to stay where I was.

Wednesday, April 24th was my last day on the trail, only five miles to the Tram. The plan was to find a ride once again from one of the many tourists on the Tram into Palm Springs. I left at 7:30 am and found myself at the Tram by 10:30 am, only to realize people were only just arriving at the top of the Tram. I figured I might have to wait awhile before I found a ride. But fortunately I met a young English couple heading down and asked if they could give me a ride.

They were both doctors and had just completed all of their required clinical practicum and were celebrating by giving themselves a trip to the music festival in Indio. They were now on their way to Laguna Beach and during our short ride into Palm Springs I talked them into taking the Palms to Pines back road to the San Juan Capistrano Mission, then onto the beach.





Once again I stayed at the Chase Hotel, owned by our friend Craig Blau. Great place to stay if you want to be in downtown Palm Springs! Thank you again Craig for your very generous hospitality.

So I have now completed the first 342 miles in Southern California, 148 miles in southern Washington, and I hope to complete 186 miles in southern Oregon in September. But I'll have to see how my knee heals up while I work on a treatment plan. Perhaps the summer on our boat will allow the knee a good long forced rest.


 





Update

On December 1 and 2, 2013 I was able to complete the 20 miles between mile 255.5 and 275 that were bypassed in April. A big storm had dropped snow in the area 10 days prior and the trail on north facing slopes still had quite a bit of snow. Having Mark along in the car was a great advantage for getting off and on the trail. And the day after I completed the section another storm came through dropping more snow. I was really glad to finally have that section complete.

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